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Advice on making wooden planes
I am a bit cheap. I appreciate quality tools. I also happen to live in a warm sub-tropical Caribbean climate. I want to make some "woodie" planes.
Basically, I want to make a whole set of planes. I intend to start with something like a Jointer or Fore plane and then do a smoothing plane and perhaps a scraper as well as a router. Sometime, I also want to make a Jack plane to replace the hopelessly cobbled together metal boat anchor, I mean finely fettled antique hand plane, that I have.
I have looked at various planes including the Japanese ones which intrigue me (but not enough to make one right off) as well as the modern remakes of the old Stanley planes, but I really like the look of the woodie planes. Also, I like not having to worry constantly about the body and mechanism rusting. I was given an old wooden plane that looks remarkably like this one and is roughly the size of a fore plane with a D handle on it. Although the handle is a bit small for my big hands, I really like the feel of it even though I have never used it since it is missing the iron and wedge. Evidently the original owner(s) did too. It is worn out.
Anyway, I understand the basic concepts although I don't understand how to set in that D handle I am so fond of. Also, I have some more questions such as what kind of wood to use. I think a dense tropical hardwood like Ipe or Ebony or even Jatoba would be appropriate, but I don't have much guidance. It may come down to whatever I can find at the lumber yard. I would actually consider myself lucky to find any usable species of wood that is 3" thick and quartersawn.
What tools are must haves to make a plane? What wood choices should I be looking at in this climate? Are there any resources of books that are particularly helpful?
I understand I am travelling the road less travelled here, but any help or guidance or thoughts would be greatly appreciated.
Luke
Hey Luke,
Off the top of my head I'd recommend these books that I am familiar with: Making Traditional Wooden Planes and The Wooden Plane both by John Whelan and Making & Mastering Wood Planes by David Finck.
The Finck book covers the lamination method, which I believe is not traditional, but many people are huge fans of this method (Krenov for one). The Whelan book on making planes does have some information on this method too, but continues on to more traditional techniques. It also covers making a variety of plane types so it might be more what you are looking for. His other book is "The Book" on wooden planes in general (IMHO), with a great deal of information on types and uses, but I don't think it covers the actual making of planes.
I am sure there are others out there, but I think these would be a great place to start.
Dan Klauder
http://dans-woodshop.blogspot.com/
Also have a look at some of the articles at http://www.handplane.com
Cheers
Jeremy
Making and Mastering Wooden Planes, by David Finck, explains in great detail how to make the laminated Krenov planes, which are easier to make than a plane made from one block of wood. You can mortise the handle into the body, but I'm not sure that's how it was done traditionally.
The best wood to use is one that is hard and doesn't move much with the seasons. Cocobolo is excellent. I'm not sure about the ones you mentioned because I've never used them. Hard maple and bloodwood are also good choices. You can also use a softer wood for the body, so it's easier to shape, and laminate a dense hardwood onto the sole.
Ideally, the grain should run horizontally so there is less side to side movement with seasonal changes. That way, the pin that holds the wedge in placement won't be pinched as the wood swells in humidity.
As you look at the side of the plane, the grain should slope downward from front to back.
Hi Luke, I submitted the previous comment. Feel free to email me directly if I can be of help to you in your plane-making adventure!
Kari (Village Carpenter)
Luke,
While I would discourage you from making planes as there is a skill set (not that you don't have the skills) and specialized tools for making them.
That said, the D handle tote on most old planes are just glued into a tight fitting mortise behind the blade. The front of the mortise (near the blade) is square and the back of the mortise (near the heel) is round to match the profile of the handle. Then hide glue and clamp overnight.
As for the wood, in your special location, the exotic hardwoods, rosewood, ebony, hop hornbeam, lignum vitae would be good (and traditional) choices, albeit difficult to work.
Stephen
I should have mentioned that I have two books, Wooden Planes and How to Make Them by Perch and Lee as well as Making Traditional Wooden Planes by John M. Whelan.
Both of them are good in their own right, but not complete from a complete newbies point of view.
I am hoping for a reprint of Making & Mastering Wood Planes and have even written the author (he is working to get someone to reprint it). I have difficulty bringing myself to pay what they are asking for a used copy.
I am going to go ahead and order the book you mentioned "The Wooden Plane".
Thanks for the offer and the help.
I hadn't thought about orienting the grain horizontally, but it makes perfect sense. I have the feeling there are other things I won't get until after I have made a few and perhaps not even then. :-/
OK, so I am rushing in where angels fear to tread. I promise to at least read up on it first and to try not be too disappointed with a few failures and many less than perfect planes!
I don't have the skills to make planes, but I think I would have the aptitude. I am pretty strong in geometry and detail oriented as well as patient.
At this point in time, I am not that interested in making planes that involve any significant amount of metalwork. I might go as far as to make plane iron or fit a brass plate, but I doubt I would ever go any further than that.
Thanks for the ideas of wood choices.
As far as the handle, is a half inch or so of mortise enough or does it need to be pretty deep?
Thanks for the reminder. It has been a while since I perused that site.
It seems to have a lot of information, but the ads drive me batty.
Luke,
Be bold, jump in and let the chips fall where they may. Remember, a plane is just a chunk of wood (or steel) that holds a blade in place. Sure there are lots of refinements and skills along the way, but don't let that, or the lack of some book, deter you. One of the great things about plane making is that the chunk of wood is generally small enough to take risks with. Your first one may leave a bit to be desired, but the fun begins when you make it,
good luck,
Pete Galbert
Luke,
I would make it 3/4" deep as that is usually about the average. I have seen one that was a bit deeper maybe an inch. It should fit well and of course be held in place with hide glue.
Good Luck
Stephen
Luke,
I just got back from "Woodworking in America" in Berea, Kentucky, where I had the good fortune of meeting and talking extensively to Don McConnell and Larry Williams of Clark and Williams Wooden Planes. These gentlemen are the modern day masters of making wooden planes. They have some DVD's about plane making that might be beneficial to you. They are coming out with a new one that includes some new information on using snipe's bill planes. You can find them on the Internet.
In attending a seminar that they were giving, Larry said something interesting about making segmented planes like the Krenov style. He said that when the side segments of the planes are glued together it creates a barrier that does not allow the wood to breathe, expand, and contract evenly. This could cause future problems for the plane. This is why they do not make their planes that way. This may be enough reason to make your plane out of a single piece of that nice tropical wood you have available to you.
If you decide to make these planes, I know that Lie-Nielsen makes special plane floats for plane making. If my memory is correct, they actually designed them for Clark & Williams Plane makers.
Hope this will help. I know this is an old post, but I just spotted it.
Larry Chenoweth in Deltona,Florida aka: "oldtoolseeker"
Thanks Larry,
I would like to get my hands on some of their stuff.
As far as the lamination, it seems that it would have some effect depending on the type of glue used, orientation of the grain, environment of the plane etc. I am not convinced it is all negative although it would probably tend to be without a lot of care.
I am working on making a plane from ipe currently. I will probably post about it soon. It is sort of like having a combination of the worst properties of southern yellow pine and wrought iron. That is, hard, splintery, and dulling to the tools. On the bright side, it should make a nice smoother if I can ever get it worked down.
Also on a "positive" note, is that it is wonderful for enhancing my working techniques. It seems to multiply by a factor of ten any inconsistencies or problems in my form or technique or tooling. Problems that I had only read about or never even considered become painfully obvious working this stuff.
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